Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
