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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.